We just got back from the Open University Shakespeare Society's day school in Stratford- where we work-shopped scenes from King Lear and a Midsummer Night's Dream. Acting Shakespeare- even if you're doing it really, really badly- is a magical experience. And I'm using "magical" in its technical sense. The way I felt after playing Puck- after a single scene in which I spoke half a line and otherwise kicked my heels and pulled faces- was how I used to feel after doing a Wiccan ritual. Shakespeare takes you into another world- where you are transfigured and bound in close fellowship with the other actors- and it's a harsh experience coming back.
We did the tourist thing. We walked along the river, visited Holy Trinity- which is a lovely church and well worth visiting quite apart from its Shakespearian connections- and had a very good dinner at The Vinter- allegedly the oldest restaurant in town and the place where Shakespeare used to buy his wine. Stratford is this curious combination of quaint old country town and cosmopolitan centre. I was prepared for it to be tacky, but it's not. You can't cheapen Shakespeare; he's bigger than you are- and this town belongs to him.