Dungeness is the biggest expanse of shingle in Europe. On one side is the English Channel and on the other is Romney Marsh- which is an otherworldly place but not as otherworldly as Dungeness. People live here in shacks and rejigged railway carriages. There are two lighthouses and a big, blocky power station which hums. The shingle is dotted with plants that look like a cross between cabbage and seaweed.